






Design development
This Module Atelier Principles focused on learning the art of suppression. Suppression: this unit you will be expected to explore in a creative and analytical way, the ways in which dart manipulation can enhance both the silhouette and the 3-dimensional form of a garment (top, dress, and skirt). This is in conjunction with the understanding of style lines within a garment.




Production
-
Draping the skirt.
When draping this skirt, I originally was going to individually drape each piece. However, Kathryn suggested it would be better to dive into four sections.
-
Crafting the master plan.
I learned that the master pattern is essential when patternmaking. You never alter the master pattern once it's completed so you can always go back and correct your mistakes when crafting your production patterns.
-
Toile Review.
Toile Review is when we come together with our professors to do a one on one. We take notes as our proffesor slice and mark the garment where needed. Also what design changes need to happen.
-
Assembling the skirt.
Now I have changed my patterns where needed, and cut out my final fabrics. Now I can start sewing my shell and lining pieces together.
-
Attaching the lining.
With attaching the lining I had to make sure there was an opening for me to pull the skirt through. I closed up the opening with a slip stitch.
-
Testing the fit.
I've noticed that with some final fabrics the fit can be different than the toile. So it's always good to check the fit. We also keep 2cm of seam allowance where the closure is to adjust the fit if needed.
-
Hand finishes.
When it came to the hand finishes, most were centralized on the waistband. Due to so many layers in the waistband I had to do lots of small prick stitches to hold all of it together. Really having to manipulate the fabric and mold it in my hands.
-
Hand sewing the zipper.
Now the many layers in the waistband having to go into the zipper required me to hand sew my entire zipper in. I accomplished this with the help of my technitian. she taught me exactly how to do this with three different stitches.
-
Finalized garment.
This skirt is one of my favorite bespoke pieces I've made so far.